Romancing the Languages

I know it's a fairly common refrain when I'm traveling outside the United States. Language. Probably better stated Languages, definitely plural with an 's.' Because everywhere I go in Europe, I hear multiple languages. Assuredly, there is the native language, the 'mother tongue' so to speak, but one can also hear other languages in the mix. English, of course. English is spoken everywhere. In Croatia I'm finding that it is only prevalent in the touristy places; in Scandinavia, however, it's literally everywhere. Everyone speaks at least some English and the majority are highly fluent. Highly fluent. Like they speak better English than most Americans I know. Sure, their vocabularies may not be as extensive as many native English speakers, but fuck...they choose and use their words extremely well. That's not a knock. I can say only a handful of words and phrases in Swedish and none in Croatian (I know a couple words in Danish but only because they are the same in Swedish. Yes, I feel like a cheater).

Since arriving in Croatia, I've heard a smattering of other languages, far more than I have ever heard in Scandinavia. Keep in mind, I'm smack-dab in the middle of tourist Hell, Dubrovnik's Old City. Keep in mind also, American readers, that the Dalmatian coast has been a prime tourist destination for decades (minus the civil war years) for many Europeans; it's only recently that Americans have discovered it (Thank you, "Game of Thrones"). People come here from all over the world and, while they may speak English when they have to - it is the language of tourism - they are much more comfortable in their native language. Thus far, I have heard and understood Russian and French. As for the rest, I haven't a clue. Several Asian languages, some that sound Teutonic, and others that have a Slavic ring. All I know is that I am ecstatic when someone opens his or her mouth and English doesn't come out. And being even more honest, I'm almost cool with English as long as it doesn't have that tell-tale American accent. Brits and Aussies, you may speak freely.

Strangely, I have spoke more Swedish in Croatia than I did in Sweden. A couple reasons. First we should probably discuss my level of fluency in Swedish, just so y'all fully understand and I don't come off trying to be something or someone I'm most definitely not. You've seen a bird pecking it's way out of an egg, right? If not in person then in a picture or video (If not, boot up You Tube and humor me a moment). Now, imagine a bird fully out of it's shell. That's complete fluency. A bird still fully within an uncracked shell represents no fluency. Where am I on this spectrum, you ask? I've cracked the egg and my little beak is just starting to peak out. That's my Swedish fluency. Call it fledgling if you will.

Ok, so let's begin that last paragraph again... As a fledgling Swedish speaker, I have spoken more Swedish in Croatia than I did in Sweden. A couple reasons -

1. No one in Sweden wants to listen to me massacre the native language. Regardless of their English fluency or desire to use it, speaking English to me is far easier and far less painful than allowing me to continue in Swedish. Don't get me wrong, I am exceptionally flattered when people begin speaking to me in Swedish. It means I'm giving off a non-American-might-be-Scandinavian vibe. Go me. Of course the moment, I look at them quizzically all that goes out the window and they quickly down-shift into English.
2. I heard Swedish all around me for days, so my instinct is to say excuse me, please, thank you, hello - all the common pleasantries - in Swedish. I know how to order food in Swedish - I just never get to - and I've erred to that a couple times since getting here. Maybe for a moment I forget I'm not in Sweden anymore. 
3. Call it my un-hinging from America. I don't want to seem like an American. Yes, the person who touts the importance of complete transparency at all times wants to give off the impression that she is not American. Americans are crass, know-it-all, loud-talking, entitled, privileged brats at home and abroad. Forgive me for not wanting to seem like I'm a part of that lot. If I mutter excuse me or thank you in Swedish, I'm suddenly speaking a language few know here, i.e. I'm suddenly not an American. What if I end up speaking Swedish to a Swedish speaker? Hooray! Seriously. Maybe they'd let me practice some Swedish far, far from home in Croatia. Hell, I'd probably win accolades for not wanting to seem American. 

So, here's my point finally (I know, right?). The world is multi-linguistic. In fact, most countries have more than one official language. In further fact, most countries encourage fluency in more than one language. In America, we look down at Spanish speakers, for example, and ask big box retailers why they have bilingual signage. I've got news for you America, the entire fucking world is filled with bilingual (if not trilingual) signage. Moreover, speaking multiple languages is considered a good thing. Yes, one of those languages is often English; it's the universal go-to language all over the world. And that's the trap America falls into time and time again. If English is king and queen, so to speak, why would we - as Americans - ever need to know another language? If we can go anywhere in the world and be understood, why learn another? Then, of course, we look at immigrants (those who legally entered and those who did not) and visitors to our country with derision when they don't speak 'good enough' English and ask for a translator or for us to merely speak slower. 

Learning a language is a process, a long process. Even the best intentioned and most diligent might take years to reach any kind of confident fluency. And we expect what? Them to step off the plane, train, or bus with perfect English?  There is a reason why the Scandinavian countries routinely rank as some of the best non-native English speakers in the world. They have a highly educated populace who begin studying English when they are in elementary school. Plus, they don't dub American and British TV shows. They subtitle them. According to many Scandinavians I've asked, this contributes greatly to their language acquisition and fluency. Not all countries do this, nor do they place as much value on education. Many of the people who end up emigrating to America have had less access to English and they very well could be less educated in general. And yet we expect a certain confidence and fluency. We are pompous idiots. 

While I'm in Croatia, I would like to learn a bit of Croatian. It just seems like the right thing to do. However, unless I leave the touristy parts or attempt to mingle with native speakers who have minimal English fluency, that may be too lofty of a goal. However, I am here ten days and if I make a concerted effort... We'll see. 

As for Swedish, it's still like music to me. I spent a lot of time with my headphones off just listening while I was in Stockholm. I love the language and even if I never end up spending a significant amount of time in Sweden, I want to learn it. Wherever I do end up spending a significant amount of time, I plan to immediately learn enough of the language to get by and diligently work my way toward some level of fluency. Maybe that's merely because having fluency in another language would make me seem less American. I really don't know. 

What is highly unfortunate for me is that I'm just not good at language acquisition. But damn I want to get better at it. If want to live abroad and communicate abroad, I need to. Right now, I'm a sucky work in progress, albeit one with great intentions who probably should try harder. That said, challenge accepted. I'll learn to say something useful in Croatian before today is out. That means I better get out and about instead of sitting on this apartment terrace writing. 

Stay tuned...